Da una famiglia di toscani "mangia-legumi" la ricetta del passato di fagioli alla maniera toscana

I fagioli per noi Toscani sono una questione affettiva. 
Si, hai letto bene: una questione di affetto, al limite del vero e proprio amore. Tanto che in ogni ristorante, osteria, enoteca e cucina che incontrerai venendo in Toscana, non potrà mancare un posto speciale riservato ai fagioli. Molto spesso il primo contorno citato in carta piuttosto che un vero e proprio primo o secondo piatto se serviti come passato, assieme alle salsicce oppure all’uccelletto.

Per fagioli intendo i fagioli bianchi, in misura minore quelli scuri borlotti o screziati. Se la nostra zona di confine tra la provincia di Siena e l’Umbria risente dell’influenza umbra per la coltivazione di legumi, specie nelle propaggini del Lago Trasimeno dove nasce la particolarissima Fagiolina, tutta la Toscana è ricchissima di varietà: si vai dai Presidi riconosciuti, il Rosso di Lucca ed il Fagiolo di Sorana fino alle pregiate e delicatissime varietà degli Zolfini e del Coco Bianco del Valdarno, del Cannellino di San Ginese, del Pievarino della Garfagnana, del Fagiolo Aquila per passare poi a tutti quei patrimoni confinati a realtà locali spesso sconosciute fuori dai confini della propria provincia. In quella di Lucca ne sono state censite addirittura 14 tipologie, tra cui il Cappone del Compitese, il Fagiolo Fico introdotto nel 1889 da un emigrante di Gallicano, il Diecimino conosciuto anche come “fagiolo scritto“, il Fagiolo Malatino, il Marconi a seme nero, il Mascherino, lo Schiaccione, il Fagiolo Stortino ed infine il Serpente, detto anche “Stringa di Lucca“.

I Fagioli dall'occhio, una delle più antiche varietà di fagioli coltivate in Toscana!

I Fagioli dall’occhio, una delle più antiche varietà di fagioli coltivate in Toscana!

Una delle varietà più antiche – che resiste solo in alcune zone d’Italia tra cui la Toscana – è quella dei Fagioli dall’occhio. Li riconoscerai per l’immancabile puntino nero sul lato di un fagiolo piccolo piccolo. Si mangiava da solo o più spesso si usava per le zuppe. Cuoceva nel fiasco dentro il forno del pane, una volta che questo aveva terminato la cottura e qui restava tutta la notte mentre le braci, lentamente, si spegnevano. Un rito l’ammollo di una notte, un rito la cottura, un rito mangiarli appena intiepiditi, con un filo d’olio dorato come il tocco di un artista su un affresco.

Insomm, come avrai colto da queste poche righe, il legame che unisce noi Toscani ai fagioli è questione d’affetto. É insito nella nostra storia ed in un modo di mangiare che si tramanda da generazioni: essendo la carne riservata alle tavole signorili e mancando le proteine, le si recuperavano nei legumi. Così fagioli, ceci, lenticchie e tutti quei legumi rustici che crescevano nelle campagne assolvevano con diligenza alla funzione di “carne dei poveri” che rivestirono per secoli. Noi Toscani più che “mangia-bistecche” dovremmo esser chiamati “mangia-legumi”!

 

Il passato di fagioli alla maniera toscana

Una delle ricette che in famiglia amiamo di più è il passato di fagioli: semplicissima da realizzare, versatile quel tanto che basta per esser trasformata in primo, secondo o contorno e calda come un abbraccio nelle fredde sere d’inverno. Il passato è forse il mio piatto preferito, quello che più mi ricorda l’infanzia ed il legame che porto dentro con la mia Toscana.

Mangiato da solo con delle belle fette di pane toscano abbrustolito, trasformato in primo piatto con l’aggiunta di pasta spezzata o dei tubetti cui tutti i nostri nonni sono così affezionati. Oppure abbinato a secondi piatti dall’aria “gourmet” come il pesce al forno o al vapore piuttosto che i crostacei (una purea di fagioli con gamberi o mazzancolle è una delizia per il palato!): il passato di fagioli è uno di quegli assi nella manica che non possono mancare nel repertorio dell’amante della cucina classica o creativa. Unica regola da rispettare: i fagioli si cuociono con la salvia. É l’undicesimo comandamento, che non devi mai infrangere. Non si transige in Toscana sulla cottura dei fagioli.

Prima di qualsiasi ricetta a base di fagioli ricorda sempre di mettere i secchi in ammollo per almeno una notte prima di cuocerli!

Prima di qualsiasi ricetta a base di fagioli ricorda sempre di mettere i secchi in ammollo per almeno una notte prima di cuocerli!

La ricetta del passato di fagioli di Morena

Morena, come forse avrai intuito, è la padrona di casa Buracchi. La collaudatrice di tutti gli abbinamenti gastronomici ed eno-gastronomici ed assieme la custode di una tradizione culinaria nata dall’incontro tra le montagne del Casentino, da dove proviene lei e le dolci colline della Valdichiana senese, da dove invece proviene mio papà. Quella che ti propongo qui è una ricetta di casa, della nostra casa; collaudata in anni ed anni di scorpacciate di fagioli!

Per realizzare il passato devi procurarti almeno 500 grammi di fagioli bianchi, che avrai tenuto in ammollo almeno una notte. Scolali e trasferiscili in una grande pentola che riempirai di acqua fredda per almeno due dita sopra i fagioli. Aggiungi 4/5 foglie di salvia fresca e lascia cuocere a fuoco lento per almeno due/tre ore, ricordandoti di aggiungere acqua se dovesse evaporare. 

Se non hai tempo per controllare la cottura ti consiglio di usare la pentola a pressione oppure quella elettrica: i fagioli freschi cuociono in 15/20 minuti, quelli secchi in 40/45. In entrambi i casi devi aggiungere un po’ più di acqua. Ti consiglio di controllare sempre il libretto di istruzioni per esser sicuro d’impiegare la dose precisa. Certo non avranno lo stesso aroma dei fagioli cotti al fiasco o – meglio ancora – al coccio delle nostre nonne ma anche noi giovani Toscani ci siamo oramai allineati al ritmo dei tempi! 

A questo punto se ce n’è rimuovi con un mestolo l’acqua in eccesso e frulla i fagioli con un minipimer. Puoi aggiungere acqua se la crema ti appare troppo soda ma tieni presente che il passato alla Toscana non è una zuppa liquida nè una vellutata: tradizione vuole che abbia una buona consistenza. Intanto sbuccia un paio di capi d’aglio, rimuovi l’anima interna e falle scaldare in un tegame con due/tre cucchiaini d’Olio Extravergine di Oliva e qualche fogliolina di salvia. Quando cominci a sentire un intenso profumo di aglio spandersi in cucina, versa i fagioli frullati assieme a due cucchiai scarsi di passata di pomodoro. Mi raccomando: due cucchiai rasi! Il pomodoro deve colorare appena i fagioli e dare quel giusto tocco di sapore che una volta in bocca toglie l’attenzione dalla farinosità del legume. 

Mescola tutto a fuoco dolce per una decina di minuti, aggiusta di sale e di pepe e lascia raffreddare il tempo di scaldare due fette di buon Pane Toscano DOP con cui servirai il passato. Ora versa il vino, che dopo la lunga attesa per la cottura dei fagioli è un buon ristoro per l’anima. Un calice di Ultimo Buracchi Riserva 2013 è ciò che ti consiglio: la sua eleganza discreta accompagnata ad una buona struttura ed a un frutto ancora così pieno ben si sposa col delicato aroma del passato. Un filo d’olio ed il pranzo da re è servito!

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